Monday, July 2, 2012

Week 2: Juicy Tents and "Zarkey Zarup"


It’s hard to fathom that week two in Israel/Palestine has come and gone just as a rainbow appears and disappears. In this past week we were all able to truly settle into our homes: meal times, communication patterns and just minute-to-minute interactions have become more or less routine and comfortable.

 Still, this is not to say that we have established a foolproof way home. Having missed the latest bus from the Old City of Jerusalem (in the case you ever find yourself privileged enough to be in Jerusalem, note that this city is not a night owl) after enjoying an evening with the lovely Jeremy and Anna Fletcher (more on this to come), we hailed a cab at considerable expense (thank you Jeremy!) to take us from Jerusalem to Bethlehem. I’m glad to report this greedy taxi driver is certainly the anomaly here, especially living in the always-surprisingly-friendly Beit Sahour! Although getting from point A to point B still doesn’t seem second-nature, we have met some incredible people through our transportation “dilemmas.” Not least of these is Elias, our ever-faithful driver and clever jokester; this, although perhaps not the most politically correct, is one of his favorites: Q: Why are the Muslim prayer calls so loud? A: Because their God doesn’t hear them! (Now, all you theology buffs out there, I too am aware Jews, Christians and Muslims all believe in the God of Abraham, but this is beside the point. **Julie says: This is not funny... :) **) Taylor and I had the pleasure of catching a “service” (basically a shared taxi) ride from Obama, who changed his name from Osama to display his enthusiastic love of America and Americans! (He is probably one of Barack Obama’s biggest fans to date.) Also memorable is a group of Muslim kids and their mom that crowded around Julie and me on the bus ride from Jerusalem to Bethlehem. Their kindness to make room on a crowded bus was followed by polite yet relentless curious questions of us. It is amazing how powerful nonverbal communication is.

Thankfully for every memory of transportation there is also a memory of a destination. One of these was meeting with Jeremy, Westmont’s international missions coordinator and his wife, Anna, who serves as an RD at Westmont. We met at Jaffa Gate in the Old City and were thankful for Jeremy’s tour of some of the city’s main attractions to give us first-timers a bit of orientation; not least, we were also thankful for sharing a meal and honest conversation together. Weaving through the marketplace bursting with spices, hookahs, flowy skirts, stuffed and wooden camels, fresh juice bars (grapefruit carrot anyone?), and plenty of (IMHO) overly zealous shopkeepers (whom Taylor and Julie thoroughly enjoy interacting with) made us excited to come back and shop. In fact we returned on Friday afternoon to do just that—or perhaps window shop is more accurate. On this past Sunday, after attending Immanuel Evangelical Church (where there is a translator…yippee!) in Bethlehem, we all journeyed to Jerusalem again with plans to visit one major site. We ended up at the Church of the Holy Sepulcher (more correctly known as the Church of the Resurrection). Monks mystified us with their chanting as they went from various Stations of the Cross. The church is massive and filled with intriguing altars, icons, candles, carvings, and even ladders; I think we all left feeling a bit overwhelmed and ignorant, itching to read up on the incredible Holy Site before returning.

Another highlight (for the girls at least) was a rooftop BBQ (with mostly people connected to Musalaha) overlooking the expansive Old City and its major sites like the Jewish synagogue, the Church of the Holy Sepulcher and the Dome of the Rock in all of their glory. The view is breathtaking; no photo can do it justice. After having faithfully watched recent Euro Cup soccer games in their entirety (even when it meant staying up into the early morning hours), Taylor opted for sleep instead of the BBQ.

On Thursday we introduced our host families to Jeremy and Anna. Both families were of course very gracious, offering juice, chocolate cake and open hearts and homes! It was nice for Taylor, Julie, Sophia, and I to all spend time together at each of the homes; unfortunately this hasn’t been a regular occurrence thus far.

On Friday Sophia, Julie and I were all thankful to have finished and submitted our research and Power Point presentations! Taylor was a trooper doing administrative and other office work; some of the most important work is not the most glamorous…I would rather be a doorkeeper in the house of my God than dwell in the tents of the wicked (Psalm 84:10).

It would almost be sinful to conclude without a brief note about the zarup Taylor and my family put together on Saturday. Simply put, Zarup is meat (we had chicken), whole potatoes, whole onions, and whole garlic cloves cooked on an iron sheet in a cylindrical oven heated by burning olive wood, stretching approximately 1.5 meters into a wall, without letting any smoke escape. Stones and wet sand are used to cover the oven vents. If it is difficult to imagine it is because we do not have anything comparable in the US. Let me tell you though, the spiced food comes out tender and uniquely flavored—sorry to say, the traditional American BBQ grub will always be inferior to zarup. Mmm, zarkey (delicious) indeed!

Fittingly, Taylor, Julie, Sophia and I met up with Shireen, Ibrahem, Shaddi, and Miriam (relatives, sorry for the botched spelling) at The Tent restaurant on Sunday night to watch Spain crush Italy 4-0 in the Euro Cup final. Joyous start, at least for Spain’s fans, to week 3!

While this is hardly a comprehensive picture of our week, we hope you have enjoyed some of the highlights! Blessings, smiles, and happy journeys to each one of you!  

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